Lost Masters of Body Painting - Nomadic Hunters of Tierra del Fuego - Victims of Genocide
The Selk'nam (also called Ona) were an indigenous people who inhabited the main island of Tierra del Fuego in southernmost South America, primarily in what is now Argentina and Chile. For thousands of years, they developed a sophisticated nomadic culture adapted to the harsh sub-Antarctic steppe environment, hunting guanaco (wild relatives of llamas), gathering coastal and terrestrial resources, and creating one of the world's most spectacular body painting traditions. The Selk'nam were renowned for their elaborate Hain ceremony, a multi-day initiation ritual featuring stunning geometric body paint designs that transformed participants into spirits. Tragically, the Selk'nam suffered complete cultural genocide following European colonization. Beginning in the 1880s, sheep ranchers systematically exterminated the Selk'nam to clear land, paying bounties for indigenous ears and genitals. Introduced diseases, forced missionization, and cultural destruction completed the devastation. The last full-blooded Selk'nam died in 1974, though some descendants with mixed ancestry survive. The Selk'nam represent one of history's most tragic cultural extinctions—an entire sophisticated civilization deliberately destroyed within a single century.
The Selk'nam developed a nomadic hunter-gatherer culture superbly adapted to Tierra del Fuego's cold steppe environment. Their primary prey was the guanaco, a wild camelid providing meat, hides for clothing and shelters, and bones for tools. Selk'nam hunters used bows and arrows with remarkable accuracy, stalking guanaco across the windswept plains. They also hunted foxes, birds, and collected shellfish along coasts. The Selk'nam lived in portable dome-shaped windbreaks covered with guanaco hides, easily dismantled and transported as they followed game. Despite the harsh climate with freezing temperatures and constant winds, Selk'nam people wore minimal clothing—mostly guanaco hide capes—and covered their bodies with animal fat for insulation. Their territory was divided among approximately 40 named groups (haruwen), each with defined hunting territories respected through customary law.
The Hain was the Selk'nam's most important ceremonial complex, serving as a male initiation ritual and religious performance lasting weeks or months. During Hain, young men underwent ordeals teaching them sacred knowledge, hunting skills, and adult responsibilities. The ceremony's most spectacular aspect involved klóketen—masked and body-painted performers representing supernatural spirits from Selk'nam mythology. Participants created elaborate body paint designs in red ochre, white clay, and charcoal, transforming into spirits through geometric patterns of incredible complexity and beauty. According to Selk'nam tradition, the Hain ceremony commemorated a mythological gender war where men overthrew original female dominance by discovering women's use of masks and body paint to impersonate spirits. The ceremony reinforced male authority while transmitting cosmological knowledge, myths, and cultural values across generations.
The Selk'nam suffered one of history's most brutal and systematic genocides. When sheep ranchers colonized Tierra del Fuego in the 1880s, they viewed indigenous people as obstacles to profit. Ranchers organized hunting parties that massacred Selk'nam people, with some offering bounties of one pound sterling per indigenous person killed—proof provided by ears or genitals. Historians estimate thousands were murdered. Missionary Julius Popper photographed himself with piles of indigenous corpses. Survivors were rounded up and confined to missions like the Salesian Mission on Dawson Island, where introduced diseases (measles, tuberculosis, influenza) killed massive numbers. Forced cultural assimilation attempted destroying remaining traditions. By 1919, only 279 Selk'nam remained. The population continued declining until Lola Kiepja, one of the last speakers who preserved songs and knowledge, died in 1966, and Ángela Loij, considered the last full-blooded Selk'nam, died in 1974.
Ironically, while the Selk'nam were being exterminated, European anthropologists were documenting their culture. Missionary and ethnographer Martin Gusinde lived with Selk'nam communities in the 1920s, participating in Hain ceremonies and taking extensive photographs of body painting, rituals, and daily life. Photographer Anne Chapman later recorded the last Selk'nam elders. Most infamously, in 1889, eleven Selk'nam people were kidnapped and displayed in a "human zoo" exhibition in Paris and across Europe. Most died from diseases contracted during this horrific display. These photographs, while documenting cultural richness, were taken during genocide—a painful contradiction highlighting how indigenous peoples were simultaneously destroyed and exoticized by colonial powers.
Though the Selk'nam as a living culture are extinct, their legacy persists. Descendants with mixed Selk'nam ancestry survive in Argentina and Chile, increasingly reclaiming their heritage and demanding recognition. In 2020, Argentina officially recognized the Selk'nam genocide. Museums in Chile and Argentina house Selk'nam artifacts, photographs, and recordings. The spectacular body painting documented by Gusinde has influenced contemporary art worldwide. Indigenous rights activists invoke the Selk'nam genocide as a cautionary tale about cultural extinction and the urgency of protecting surviving indigenous peoples. The Selk'nam story represents the devastating consequences of colonialism—a sophisticated culture with unique artistic traditions, spiritual practices, and ecological knowledge, completely destroyed in pursuit of land and profit. Their memory serves as both memorial to what was lost and warning about ongoing threats to indigenous peoples globally.