Masters of Shell Money - Keepers of Tabu Currency - Matrilineal Traders of New Britain
The Tolai (also known as Kuanua) are an Austronesian people numbering approximately 120,000-150,000 inhabiting the Gazelle Peninsula of East New Britain Province, Papua New Guinea, and nearby islands including the Duke of York Islands. The Tolai are world-renowned for their sophisticated shell money system called tabu (also tambu or diwara), made from small shells strung on rattan, which served as currency, wealth storage, and ritual exchange medium predating European contact. They developed a complex matrilineal society organized into clans (vunatarai) with land and property inherited through the mother's line, creating distinctive kinship structures unusual in Papua New Guinea. The Tolai established extensive trading networks throughout the Bismarck Archipelago, using outrigger canoes for maritime commerce exchanging tabu, food, and crafted goods. They practice a unique blend of traditional kastom (custom) and Christianity, maintaining elaborate ceremonies including mortuary rites featuring massive tabu exchanges, initiation rituals, and the tubuan (masked spirit societies). The Tolai were early adopters of cash crops including copra and cocoa, becoming economically prominent in Papua New Guinea while preserving strong cultural identity and traditional practices.
The Tolai's tabu (shell money) represents one of the most sophisticated indigenous currency systems documented. Tabu consists of small nassa shells (Nassarius camelus) laboriously harvested from specific reefs, cut, ground, pierced, and strung on rattan in standardized lengths called a fathom (pokono). Production is time-intensive—creating one fathom requires processing hundreds of tiny shells. The shells come in two types: minat (red/brown shells) valued roughly ten times higher than regular tabu, and common white/yellow shells. Tabu serves multiple functions: currency for trade, wealth storage, bride price (vartabar), compensation payments (labalaba), and ritual exchange in ceremonies. Large quantities are exchanged at mortuary feasts, with wealthy individuals accumulating coils containing thousands of fathoms. The value fluctuates based on quality, length, and shell type. Specialized Tolai families controlled production, creating economic stratification. Colonial authorities attempted to suppress tabu to force wage labor, but it persisted. Today, tabu production continues using traditional methods, exchanged alongside modern currency in a dual economy unique to Tolai society.
Tolai society organizes through matrilineal descent, with clan membership (vunatarai), property, and land rights inherited through mothers. Unlike most Papua New Guinean societies (typically patrilineal), Tolai children belong to their mother's clan, creating distinctive kinship obligations. Land ownership rests with matrilineal groups, though men typically manage land use. This system creates complex marriage arrangements—men must provide substantial bride price (vartabar) in tabu to the bride's matrilineage, compensating for the loss of her labor and children. Divorce returns bride price, creating economic disincentives. Traditional leadership included big men (vunatarai leaders) who gained status through wealth accumulation and distribution, particularly hosting elaborate feasts. The tubuan (secret male initiation society) cuts across clan lines, with tubuan masks representing spirits controlling aspects of social life, performing initiations, enforcing rules, and conducting ceremonies. Women have their own secret society, the iniet. This dual system of matrilineal clans and male societies creates nuanced social dynamics balancing female property rights with male ritual authority.
The tubuan represents the most powerful traditional institution in Tolai society—a male secret society featuring elaborate cone-shaped masks representing spirits. Tubuan masks, constructed from bark cloth, painted with distinctive designs, and topped with feather crests, are believed to manifest actual spirits during ceremonies. The tubuan "polices" society, enforcing taboos, punishing wrongdoers, and presiding over initiations that transform boys into men through ordeals and secret knowledge transmission. Different tubuan have specific names, personalities, and functions. The masks are stored in sacred men's houses (taraiu) forbidden to women and uninitiated boys—violating this taboo traditionally meant death. Tubuan ceremonies involve dramatic performances with dancing, drumming (garamut), and ritual exchanges of massive quantities of tabu. Women have their own parallel society called iniet, with masks and ceremonies from which men are excluded. These complementary secret societies regulate Tolai society, maintaining gender-specific knowledge and ritual authority. Despite Christian conversion, tubuan ceremonies continue in modified forms, demonstrating remarkable cultural persistence and adaptation.
The Tolai developed extensive maritime trading networks throughout the Bismarck Archipelago using sophisticated outrigger canoes. Traditional economy centered on horticulture (taro, yams, sweet potato), fishing, pig raising, and specialized production including tabu manufacture, pottery, and lime production for betel nut chewing. Tolai traders established markets throughout the region, exchanging tabu for obsidian, feathers, food, and other valuables. The introduction of European contact brought dramatic economic change—the Tolai rapidly adopted copra production (dried coconut meat for oil) and cocoa cultivation, becoming among Papua New Guinea's most commercially successful indigenous groups. The town of Rabaul, in Tolai territory, became a major colonial commercial center. This economic prominence brought both opportunities and conflicts, including the Tolai uprising of 1969 demanding compensation for land alienation. Today, Tolai engage in cash cropping, wage labor, and business while maintaining traditional exchange systems. The dual economy—modern business and traditional tabu exchange—characterizes contemporary Tolai life, with successful individuals expected to participate in both systems.
Modern Tolai maintain strong cultural identity while being prominent in Papua New Guinea's national life. The majority identify as Christian (predominantly Methodist/United Church and Catholic), though traditional beliefs and practices persist in syncretic form. Kastom (traditional custom) remains central to social life, with mortuary ceremonies, bride price exchanges, and tubuan initiations continuing. The Tolai language (Kuanua) thrives with active transmission to younger generations, though Tok Pisin (creole lingua franca) is widely spoken. Challenges include land pressure from population growth, tension between traditional and modern governance, and the 1994 volcanic destruction of Rabaul, requiring mass relocation. The area experienced violence during the Bougainville Crisis (1988-1998) due to proximity. Young Tolai navigate between expectations of traditional tabu obligations and modern education and employment. Cultural organizations work to document traditional knowledge, maintain tabu production skills, and preserve ceremonial practices. The Tolai demonstrate that indigenous monetary and social systems can persist alongside modern economy, creating hybrid cultural forms that honor tradition while embracing change.