Brass Coil Tradition - Kayan Lahwi "Long Neck" Women - Highland Weavers
The Kayan (also known as Kayan Lahwi or Padaung) are a Tibeto-Burman indigenous people numbering approximately 130,000-150,000 individuals, primarily residing in Kayah State of eastern Myanmar (Burma) with smaller refugee and migrant communities in northern Thailand. The Kayan are world-famous for their distinctive cultural practice of women wearing brass neck coils (called neck rings) that create the appearance of elongated necks, earning them the nickname "long neck women." This tradition, maintained by the Kayan Lahwi subgroup, begins in childhood with girls receiving their first coils around age 5-6, gradually adding more rings throughout life until some women wear over 20 coils weighing up to 10 kilograms. Beyond this striking practice, the Kayan developed sophisticated weaving traditions, agricultural systems adapted to mountainous terrain, and animistic spiritual beliefs. Their history includes migration from southern China centuries ago, resistance to Burmese domination, and in recent decades, displacement due to Myanmar's civil conflicts, leading many to refugee camps in Thailand where their traditions face both preservation challenges and commercialization through tourism.
The iconic brass neck coils (Kayan: "idzila") represent the Kayan's most recognizable cultural practice, maintained primarily by the Kayan Lahwi subgroup. Young girls traditionally receive their first coils around age 5-6 during a special ceremony, with additional rings added periodically throughout childhood and adolescence. The coils—actually a single continuous brass spiral wound around the neck—gradually push down the collarbone and compress the upper ribs over years, creating the distinctive elongated appearance. Some women wear 20-25 coils weighing up to 10 kilograms. The origins and meanings of this practice remain debated—theories include beauty ideals, protection against tiger bites (legendary), resemblance to a dragon (mythical ancestor), or distinction from other ethnic groups. Traditionally, coils were rarely removed except for replacement or cleaning. While many young Kayan women continue the practice, others choose not to wear coils, creating generational debates about cultural preservation versus individual choice and changing beauty standards.
Beyond neck rings, Kayan culture features sophisticated textile traditions using backstrap looms to create distinctive fabrics with red backgrounds and geometric patterns. Women weave clothing including traditional dresses and shoulder bags featuring symbolic designs representing mountains, flowers, and cultural identity. The Kayan also wear brass coils on arms and legs, creating complete adornment systems. Traditional material culture includes bamboo crafts, basketry, and agricultural tools suited for swidden (slash-and-burn) cultivation in mountainous terrain. Kayan villages traditionally featured elevated wooden houses with thatched roofs, vegetable gardens, and rice storage granaries. They practiced wet-rice cultivation in valley bottoms when possible, supplemented by upland rice and vegetable cultivation on hillsides. Hunting and gathering forest products supplemented agricultural diet.
Traditional Kayan spirituality centers on animism (called Kan Khwan), recognizing spirits inhabiting natural features, ancestors, and household guardians. Spiritual practitioners conduct ceremonies for agricultural cycles, healing, and life transitions. The Kayan believe in multiple souls and maintain elaborate funeral practices to ensure proper transition to the afterlife. Villages (kaung) organized through kinship networks with headmen and councils of elders governing through customary law. The Kayan recognize patrilineal descent with clan exogamy rules. Some Kayan have converted to Christianity (particularly Baptist) or Buddhism, though many maintain traditional beliefs alongside newer religions. Social life traditionally centered on agricultural cooperation, with communal work parties for planting and harvesting creating strong village bonds.
The Kayan migrated from southern China to Myanmar centuries ago, settling in the mountainous Kayah State (formerly Karenni State) alongside related Karenni peoples. Throughout the 20th century, Kayah State experienced ongoing conflict between ethnic armies seeking autonomy and Myanmar's central government. Beginning in the 1980s, fighting intensified, forcing many Kayan to flee to Thailand as refugees. Refugee camps near Mae Hong Son in northern Thailand became home to Kayan communities in limbo—unable to return to Myanmar safely but also lacking Thai citizenship or freedom of movement. These camps attracted significant tourism focused on viewing "long neck women," creating controversial situations where traditional culture became commercialized, with some viewing it as cultural preservation and economic survival, while critics argue it exploits and commodifies indigenous people.
Today's Kayan face complex challenges navigating between cultural preservation, displacement, and modernization. In Thailand refugee camps, tourism provides income but raises ethical concerns about "human zoos" and commercialized tradition. The neck coil tradition itself sparks debate—some view it as essential cultural identity requiring preservation, while others see it as potentially harmful practice that younger generations should freely choose or reject. Myanmar's ongoing instability prevents many refugees from returning home. Education access remains limited, with children in camps receiving basic schooling but facing uncertain futures. Cultural organizations work to document Kayan language, traditions, and history while advocating for refugee rights and sustainable development. Some Kayan communities seek ways to preserve cultural heritage—including weaving, language, and spiritual practices—while adapting to changing circumstances. The challenge remains balancing cultural continuity with women's agency, children's welfare, and community economic survival in displacement.