Who Are the Bai?
The Bai are an ethnic group of approximately 2 million people concentrated around Erhai Lake and the Dali region of Yunnan Province, southwestern China. They are descendants of the ancient Nanzhao (738-902 CE) and Dali (937-1253 CE) kingdoms, powerful states that ruled much of present-day Yunnan and beyond, challenging Tang China and maintaining independence until Mongol conquest.
The Bai developed a sophisticated civilization with distinctive architecture, writing (using Chinese characters to represent Bai words), Buddhism, and arts. Today, Dali Old Town remains a center of Bai culture, featuring traditional white-washed houses, elaborate woodcarving, and tie-dye textile production that has become world-famous.
The Ancient Kingdoms
The Nanzhao Kingdom arose in the 8th century, uniting several principalities around Erhai Lake. At its height, Nanzhao controlled territory from present-day Vietnam to Burma, repeatedly defeating Tang Chinese armies and even briefly occupying the Tang southern capital. The kingdom maintained diplomatic relations across Asia and developed distinctive Buddhist-influenced culture.
After Nanzhao's collapse, the Dali Kingdom emerged, continuing Bai civilization for another three centuries. The Dali period saw the flourishing of Buddhist art, the construction of the Three Pagodas (still standing), and development of a sophisticated court culture. The Mongol conquest in 1253 ended political independence but did not destroy Bai identity.
Traditional Architecture
Bai architecture features distinctive courtyard houses with white-washed walls, grey tiled roofs, and elaborate decorative elements. The traditional house follows the "three rooms and one screen wall" pattern: three buildings around a courtyard with a decorated screen wall facing the gate. Wealthy families expanded to larger configurations with multiple courtyards.
The screen wall (zhaobi) receives particular attention, featuring painted landscapes, calligraphy, or religious imagery. Wooden doors and windows display intricate carving depicting auspicious symbols. This architectural tradition continues in Dali, where new construction often follows traditional patterns, creating one of China's best-preserved historical townscapes.
Tie-Dye and Crafts
The Bai are famous for tie-dye (zharan) fabric production, particularly indigo blue-and-white textiles created through binding and dyeing techniques. The village of Zhoucheng specializes in this craft, producing tablecloths, clothing, and decorative items sold throughout China and internationally.
Other Bai crafts include silver jewelry, lacquerware, wood carving, and marble processing. Dali marble, with its natural patterns resembling landscapes, has been prized for centuries. Traditional crafts remain economically important, with tourism creating new markets while traditional skills face challenges from mass production.
Bai Religion and Festivals
The Bai practice a syncretic religion combining Buddhism, Daoism, and indigenous beliefs. Benzhu (local lord) worship involves village deities—often deified historical figures or nature spirits—who protect communities and receive offerings at local temples. Each village maintains its own benzhu cult alongside Buddhist practice.
The Third Month Fair (Sanyue Jie) is the most important Bai festival, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors for markets, horse racing, traditional music and dance, and religious observances at the Chongsheng Temple. Other festivals include the Torch Festival (shared with Yi) and the Raosanling walking festival visiting sacred sites.
References
- Fitzgerald, C.P. (1941). "The Tower of Five Glories: A Study of the Min Chia of Ta Li, Yunnan"
- Backus, C. (1981). "The Nan-chao Kingdom and T'ang China's Southwestern Frontier"
- Hsu, E. (2010). "Pulse Diagnosis in Early Chinese Medicine"
- Liang, Y. (2019). "Bai Architecture: Continuity and Change in Dali"