Who Are the Arhuaco?
The Arhuaco (Ika) are one of four indigenous peoples of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in northern Colombia, numbering approximately 35,000. They speak Ikan, an Aruak (Chibchan) language. The Sierra Nevada—the world's highest coastal mountain range—is considered by its indigenous peoples to be the "Heart of the World," and they view themselves as its guardians (mamos or spiritual leaders). The Arhuaco are recognizable by their distinctive white cotton clothing and conical hats (tutusoma). Their territory rises from Caribbean coast to snowcapped peaks over 5,700 meters.
Heart of the World
The Sierra Nevada's four indigenous peoples—Arhuaco, Kogi, Wiwa, and Kankuamo—share a cosmovision that positions their mountain as the Heart of the World (Corazón del Mundo). They believe that maintaining spiritual balance on the Sierra maintains balance for the entire planet. The mamos (spiritual authorities) conduct rituals at sacred sites, make pagamentos (offerings), and interpret natural signs. This ecological spirituality frames the Sierra's peoples as having responsibility for planetary wellbeing. Their message to the "Younger Brother" (outside world) warns that environmental destruction threatens global catastrophe.
Colonial Resistance
The Sierra Nevada's peoples successfully resisted Spanish colonization—the steep terrain, fierce resistance, and disease environment defeated multiple military expeditions. This allowed survival of pre-Columbian cultural practices and social organization that were destroyed elsewhere in Colombia. The Arhuaco maintained traditional governance, spiritual practices, and territorial control where most indigenous peoples were conquered and transformed. This continuity makes the Sierra Nevada one of the most culturally intact indigenous regions in the Americas. The physical isolation that protected them now faces threats from roads, tourism, and armed conflict.
Contemporary Arhuaco
Modern Arhuaco balance cultural preservation with increasing external pressure. Armed conflict has affected their territory—guerrillas, paramilitaries, and military have all operated in the Sierra. Coca cultivation and drug trafficking bring violence. Climate change threatens glaciers and water sources. Development projects—roads, dams, mining—encroach on sacred sites. The Arhuaco have organized politically through the ConfederaciĂłn IndĂgena Tayrona (CIT). Their international advocacy—including speaking at the UN—brings global attention to Sierra Nevada issues. How the Arhuaco protect the Heart of the World while surviving Colombia's ongoing conflicts defines their role as planetary guardians.
References
- Reichel-Dolmatoff, G. (1991). The Ika: People of the Sierra Nevada
- Ereira, A. (1990). The Elder Brothers (Documentary and Book)
- Uribe, C. A. (1992). "La etnografĂa de la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta"